Archive for the ‘Uncategorized’ Category
Start the new year fresh and banish the clutter!
De-cluttering at the end of the year might not be fun, but it is necessary. Making this an annual practice will pay off down the road in shorter, more manageable stacks, access to more storage space and ease in locating those items you really do need. Here are a few tips to get you started with the process.
Tax Returns
The general rule is to keep personal supporting documentation for three years; business for six. When disposing of sensitive information containing social security, credit card or bank account information, be sure to use a criss-cross shredder.
Home Improvement Documentation
As lending and ancillary appraisal industries continue to tighten their standards, it is more important than ever to keep track of the improvements you make to your home. Scan and upload receipts, or keep a home-improvement binder. The key here is to keep everything in one place to that it’s handy when you need it and won’t have to go digging through mounds of paperwork.
Photos
Printed photos need to be stored in acid-free, archival-quality albums or boxes. If you keep your photos digitally, be sure to back them up online or away from your home. You never know when the computer will decide it has processed its last byte; or, heaven forbid, when a disaster might strike.
Computers
Speaking of computers, how many out-dated peripherals do you have stuffed in closets, under desks and in the backs of cabinets? If old equipment is still functional, it just might be valuable to a non-profit, school, or other organization. Be sure your erase the hard drive (if you don’t know how, it’s worth paying the nominal fee to have it done professionally) before donating or disposing of computers. If the equipment is not usable, many big box stores have turn-in programs to take old equipment off your hands. Some will even give you credit towards new equipment, so be sure to ask.
Books
There are a lot of options for used books. Those in reasonably good condition might be acceptable inventory for resale on EBay, Amazon, Craigslist, or similar websites. Yard sales and flea markets are great outlets for used books as well. If you are feeling more charitable, many non-profits accept books for sale in their thrift stores or through special book fairs or sales. Finally, don’t forget your local schools and libraries. Many are experiencing declining budgets and will gladly welcome (appropriate) donated reading materials.
Magazines, Catalogs and Newspapers
One word: RECYCLE! (Oh, and cancel any unwanted subscriptions and remove your name from catalog mailing lists at www.catalogchoice.org to keep them from piling up again in the future.)
Clothes
Keep the classic looks, donate the trendier ones. Neutrals, tailored pieces and garments that can be used for multiple looks are keepers. Bell-bottoms, leg-warmers and grown-up footie pajamas are thrift store fodder. Likewise, any clothes that haven’t been worn in the past one to two years need to be donated, assuming they are clean and in good repair. Take a deep breath and toss any stained, ripped or worn clothing directly into the trash.
Old Towels
This one might surprise you. There are many businesses that might actually appreciate your old towels. Veterinarians, kennels, automotive repair, and cleaning companies are just a few to consider. This is one category where your trash really might be someone else’s treasure.
Toys
Remember the movie Toy Story? There is always another home where toys will be loved again, so most make great donations or yard sale items. For hygiene and safety reasons, make sure toys are clean and in good repair. Pay special attention to potential choking hazards. Items that have seen better days – such as games that are missing pieces or dolls with no heads – sadly, need to begin their journey to the garbage truck.
Tick-Tock Tosses
Expiration dates exist for a reason. Pay special attention to:
- Food that is past its expiration date or in dented or rusted cans.
- Outdated medicines (visit www.fda.gov for proper disposal suggestions).
- Opened paint cans, oil or other solvents that are more than a year old (visit www.epa.gov for disposal guidelines).
- Used batteries (see the EPA website referenced above).
Getting started with these tips will set you on the path towards banishing the clutter in your home. Who knows? It might even motivate you to tackle those pesky junk drawers next!
Tags: children, cleaning, Clutter, Donations, Families, Home, Organization, Organizing, Paperwork, Thrift Stores, Toys, Yard Sales
Tips for Rug Owners who have accident-prone Pets…
= You need to own rugs that can be WASHED, so look for woven rugs instead of tufted ones. If price is an issue, look for machine woven rugs, or perhaps synthetic rugs. Synthetic fibers tend to be less expensive than natural fibers (they also are not as nice, because the best fiber for rugs is wool… but if your pets will be puddling often, you might as well have them do it on an inexpensive machine made synthetic rug).
= Pick a rug with a BUSY design so yellow stains will not be obvious. Rug Cleaners can wash the odor out of woven rugs, but stains will likely be permanent.
= Use a pad under the rug even if it does not slide or buckle on you, because this will help create a barrier between your rug and your floor. If pet urine penetrates the rug and gets into your flooring, you will have a much larger odor removal problem on your hands, especially if you have specialty hardwood floors. It may not be possible to remove the odor short of replacing the floor, so a pad can help protect you from the worst case scenario… or at least delay the inevitable if your puppies aren’t trained quickly.
(courtesy of Lisa Wagner)
(a reprint from Lisa Wagner. “The rug Chick”)
I receive a lot of “help me” calls from rug cleaners and rug owners on rugs that are buckling. They want to know what to do.
And my answer is usually… it depends.
That’s because there are a number of reasons why a rug is buckling on someone. Some of these reasons are correctable. Others are not.
Here is the list of different causes of buckling:
Weaving Characteristics
No hand woven rug is perfectly symmetrical. There will always be a little bit of variance in the width and length, and some fluctuation in the weaving tension throughout the rug itself.
A city rug (woven in rug factories in weaving cities) will of course have more quality control than rugs woven by tribal weavers. I personally prefer the tribal rugs because they have more character and personality.
Weaver using a horizontal loom.
That said, in some tribal weaving centers, especially in areas that are war-torn like Afghanistan, the consistency can vary beyond being an interesting weaving characteristic to being seen as a weaving flaw in some extreme cases:
Tension along end of this Afghan rug causes buckling.
Buckling from weaving tension changes, or width or length variations, are not unique to Afghanistan. You see examples of this in all weaving countries. And in most cases they are seen as unique characteristics of a rug’s personality. Like a few great laugh lines on a smiling face, or dimples, they are what make the rug have character.
And as with those lines or dimples, you can’t just take a steam iron and make those go away. There is no “Rug Botox” to use.
Sometimes a weaver – especially if the loom is a nomadic one – will not know the rug has a “buckling” problem until after it is completed and cut off the loom. In some cases a rug manufacturer will apply a sizing to the rug (similar to starch) to try to make the rug stiffer than it would naturally be.
The problem with sizing is that it will wash out, and it may be difficult to have it re-applied. So if you are buying a rug, or you are getting ready to clean a rug, you want to look closely at the shape of the rug and if you see any evidence of problems on the BACK side.
Creases can be clearly seen on the back of this Afghan rug. These are causing buckling on the front.
Sometimes a rug can be stretched to help it lay flatter, but this is a strenuous process that may damage the rug.
Stretching an Afghan rug to help it lay flatter.
In these cases you need to think about weaving variations as no different than one of your feet being a bit larger than the other. Think of what you would need to do to try to make them perfectly equal, and then apply that though to a rug, on the work that would be needed to make a side that may be an inch longer than the opposite one even.
It is often impossible to do. So your expectations need to be realistic, and if the variations are too much, then pass on purchasing the rug.
Material Backings
With embroidery, needlepoint, and hooked rugs, the buckling is often due to the construction especially if that construction includes a heavy material backing.
Embroidery needlepoint rug with a heavy cotton backing.
This type of weaving, though often very elegant, can also often not be perfectly symmetrical. And when you have two independent pieces – the hand crafted needlework and the material backing – that are loosely stitch to one another, this can create some buckling and waves.
Crewel stitch (aka chainstitch) needlepoint with material backing.
Hand crafted custom rugs using different fabrics and fibers can also lead to buckling, especially along the seams of there the pieces are put together.
Seam tape can split and buckle.
Seam tape can split under foot traffic, or with age, or from cleaning (especially if the individual piece are made of different fibers and may react differently during the cleaning process. Some fibers swell when wet, others condense. Some are stronger when wet, others are weaker. Some absorb more moisture and dry slowly, others dry quick. And these variances can split a seam if you are not careful.
Tufted Rugs (Latexed Material Backing)
Tufted rugs are the rugs you see with latex holding it together. Latex over time deteriorates and crumbles away, so often it is covered up with material to hide this kind of ugliness:
Old latex delaminating on a tufted rug.
Rugs are meant to be on a HARD floor, and not over soft wall-to-wall carpet. But, sometimes a soft floor is your only option.
While woven rugs (rugs you can see the design on the back of the rug same as the front) have some “give” to flex when over a soft floor, a tufted rug is not so forgiving.
Heavy furniture on top of a rug that is over a carpeted floor can stretch the fibers of a woven rug, and in worst cases create tears and holes. And with tufted rugs, which have a latex backing holding them together, they can create waves in the rug you won’t be able to get out.
Buckling in a tufted rug from furniture.
With these rugs, once they have been stretched from heavy furniture, and the latex backing cracks and bends, it’s damaged and will be very difficult to make flat again. It’s like when an elastic band gets over stretched, you can’t get it back to its original shape.
With woven rugs, you have a better chance of washing and reshaping a rug that has gotten buckles from furniture. And to protect BOTH types of rugs, short of putting them on top of a hard floor instead, you can seek out a stiff pad to place between the rug and the carpeted floor.
If your rug is tending to want to move and buckle even when it’s on a hard floor, then often a good rug pad will keep you from having any safety risks of people tripping on it. (Plus pads are “shock absorbers” for rugs and keep them from wearing from foot traffic as fast, and they also tend to deter bugs from wanting to find a home under your wool rugs. I personally love Durahold pad for rugs on hard floors.)
Edge Finishes (By Machine or By Hand)
Sometimes the ends or sides of a rug are finished a bit too tightly, or overdone, and this can create curling of a rug.
Heavy side cord wrap by hand on this dhurrie rug makes the corners curl up.
Machine serging of edges created curling of this rug.
The curling may be immediate, or only evident when the rug gets wet or damp. The level of buckling depends on how the fibers react to water. Some fibers get tighter when wet, and loosen when dry. This is especially evident on oriental rugs that are tightly woven, and the cotton foundation fibers tighten up when wet. (Think about your clothes when you take them out of the washer. Your cotton items are smaller and tighter, and your wool items are looser and stretchy. Most woven rugs are wool face fibers twisted around cotton foundation warps and wefts, so “wet” they can create some buckling that will go away when dry.)
Side curls on this damp Sarouk rug that is drying face down.
Leather or vinyl strips are sometimes sewn along the sides to help keep them flat on the floor.
If a hand woven wool rug is perfectly flat when dry, but curls when it is wet, then it will regain it’s proper shape when dry. Don’t panic.
An exception is Navajo and other American Indian weavings. Often the outside wrapping threads are not pre-washed before being used in the final weaving, and these strands may shrink a bit during cleaning, which can give the illusion that the overall rug has shrunk, when it is in reality just the outside cords.
Navajo rug from a flood, the outside cords have shrunk creating a buckling of the rug.
On the very first cleaning of a Navajo rug, the outside cord will need to be adjusted to make up for the shrinking of the cords, and future washes will not be a problem as far as buckling. (There are other concerns when handling American Indian textiles, from potential dye migration to wool fuzzing, that require an expert’s touch when cleaning. These rugs can be quite valuable, so always seek out someone with expertise in handling these pieces, as well as any investment textile or rug.)
Floods and Extraction Equipment
When rugs are exposed to flood water for extended periods of time, buckling can result from the absorption of the water in the cotton foundation fibers. In most cases, this buckling will be correctable. Though you need to follow the right steps to make sure you thoroughly clean and decontaminate any rugs exposed to flood waters. Click here => for tips on handling rugs from floods.
Heavy extraction equipment (Rover and Xtreme Extractor) though excellent at pulling out the water, can sometimes create some buckling on looser woven rugs that may or may not be correctable. Whether it’s this type of equipment, or other extracting wands, it is better on the rug to extract from the BACK of the rug to try to avoid any marks or buckles from equipment. When using a wand it can help to have someone stand on the edge you are extracting to help hold the rug flat while doing the work.
Most rug cleaning facilities have roller or spinner wringers to remove water, which removes the buckling risk. Especially with the rollers, which tend to flatten out the rug smoothly for the drying process. But if extraction is your water removal method, you just want to make sure you are not too aggressive in this step.
Buckling in field of a rug from extracting.
While we may be doing an excellent job of maintaining our living areas, occasionally we need to do more than maintenance. Take the time to review what goes into a living room spring clean up. Find a list of supplies along with step-by-step instructions to do a thorough spring cleaning in your living areas.
1. Begin with a 15 Minute Living Room Cleanup. This will clear out the clutter and give you room to do the actual spring clean up. Don’t worry about cleaning the floors in the 15 minute clean up. We will do this later.
2. Dust down the ceiling and corners of walls. Determine if the walls need washed in dirty spots. Spot wash, remembering air vents, doorknobs, doors, and switch plates.
More Surface Cleaning Resources
Dust and clean all art and photographs along the wall.
Of course don’t forget regular professional cleaning of your rugs, upholstery and hardwood floors. 
Thanks for reading,
David Gargan
How To Clean Your Hardwood Floors
Your hardwood floor is installed. Your house finally feels like a home. But now what? How do you care for your new investment? Read on.
Meet Mat
Floor mats are a wonderful thing when it comes to hardwood floors. Tiny particles, like dirt, can act like sandpaper and scratch your wood. By placing a floor mat at each entryway and encouraging family members and guests to wipe their feet, the majority of dirt and grime will remain on the mat. Also put a floor mat or rug in any area where water could be splashed — like near the kitchen sink. This will hinder any possible water damage.
Note that rubber-backed or non-ventilated floor mats or rugs can damage your floor. Instead use floor mats or rugs made especially for hardwood floors and be sure to shake them out regularly.
Whistle While You Work
Along with a hardwood floor comes the responsibility of keeping it clean. The better care you take, the longer your floor will maintain its original beauty. Step one is to purchase a high quality broom so that you can sweep your floor regularly of dirt, dust and other particles.
Second step is a vacuum cleaner without a beater bar, to get in between the boards and other hard to reach areas.
Deeper cleaning techniques vary depending on the installation and finish of your hardwood floor. For “Finish in Place” hardwood floors, using an 8”x14” terrycloth mop with a rotating head that makes cleaning corners, under cabinets and along base boards as simple as pie is recommeded.
Professional cleaning products can be used to remove tough stains and spills without dulling the finish of your wood floor. see more here. https://www.hpbyd.com/ecocleancarpetsolutions
Do and Don’ts
Don’t wax a wood floor with a urethane finish
Do use cleaners that won’t leave a film or residue
Don’t use ammonia cleaners or oil soaps on a wood floor — they’ll dull the finish and affect your ability to recoat later.
Do use a professional hardwood floor cleaner to remove occasional scuffs and heel marks (just spray some cleaner on a cloth and rub the stained area lightly)
Don’t wet mop or use excessive water to clean your floor (wood naturally expands when it’s wet and can cause your floor to crack or splinter).
Do clean sticky spots with a damp towel or sponge
Do minimize water exposure and clean spills immediately
Go Deep
If and when your hardwood floor begins to look like it belongs beneath the feet of gold miners in an old western saloon, it’s time to consider a deep clean and protector or screening and recoating.
read more here: http://www.knoxclean.com/services/hardwood/
Screening is the process used to abrade or grind down your floor’s polyurethane finish. Next, fresh coats of urethane are applied. The result is a rejuvenated floor that looks as good as the day it was installed!
If the damage to your hardwood floor is severe, then you may require sanding and refinishing. This process involves sanding your floor down to the bare wood and refinishing it. Only go to this effort if screening and recoating doesn’t solve your problem. Replacement boards may be available so you don’t have to refinish the entire area. Be sure to go pro whenever you have work done on your hardwood floors!
Protect Your Investment
All hardwood floors fade or change shades over time. Like our own skin, wood’s exposure to sunlight may greatly increase this process and cause permanent damage.
Window treatments are recommended to shade your floors from the sun’s harsh rays. We also recommend rotating area rugs and furniture regularly, allowing wood floors to age evenly from UV exposure.
To avoid permanent marks and scratches, it’s a good idea to cover furniture and table legs with flannel protectors. Be careful when moving heavy objects across your floor to avoid scuffing.
Ladies — your stiletto heels may be fashionable, but what’s not in fashion (or covered by your warranty) are the dents and scratches they cause to wood floors. Likewise, trim your pet’s nails regularly and keep any and all other sharp objects away from your floors.
Love your floors and your floors will love you back for a long, long time.
Thanks for stopping by,
David Gargan
Surprise! So-called “frost proof” water faucets will freeze and split internally if a hose is left attached over the winter. However, this hidden rupture won’t be noticed until AFTER an unsuspecting homeowner hooks his hose up and turns on the faucet. So while the flowers are getting watered outside the home’s lower level is being flooded from the ruptured tubing hidden inside the wall. (Don’t ask me how I learned this!)
Buy a female cap with a rubber hose washer inside that will thread on any faucet bib. After tightening the cap on the hose bib briefly turn on the faucet slightly and listen closely. (You can also keep your hand on  the faucet to feel the vibration of running water.) If you can hear (or feel) running water the faucet has an internal rupture inside the wall. Turn it off right away. |
Bonus TIP: Be very cautious early in the spring time with an outside hose bib that appears to have had a hose attached to it all winter. Very likely it is an “accident waiting to happen”.
I’ve been getting a lot of emails lately on bugs eating rugs – so I thought I’d share some tips for both rug owners and rug cleaners.
Moths ate the wool, left behind the cotton foundation.
The two biggest wool rug culprits are moths and carpet beetles.
Moths: rug enemy #1.
Carpet beetle: rug enemy #2.
For some more extensive ways to get rid of theses critters from your home, visit this site for moths, and this site for carpet beetles.
For rugs, there are several steps you can take to keep the bugs from digesting your oriental rugs.
VACUUM REGULARLY
These bugs like nice, quiet, undisturbed places. You will generally find them doing their dirty work under the corner of your sofa, behind a drape, along the cracks in the planks of your wood floor, or on the back side of a rug hanging up still on your wall.
You do not need to “beat” the rug with your vacuum, just give it a good once over on the front every few weeks, and flip over the corners to see if there is anything to be wary of. Moth larvae looks like sticky lint and they do their damage when they emerge from those cocoons HUNGRY.
I like to run my vacuum upholstery tool over the back of the corners of my rugs, just to be safe, and once a quarter I completely vacuum the back side of my rugs to make enough chaos to have bugs look for another place to feast.
For rugs hanging on the walls, at least once a quarter take them down to vacuum. If they are delicate you can use the upholstery attachment instead of a beater bar or super-sucker type vacuum. Because of this needed maintenance for hanging textiles, this is why we like to suggest using velcro to hang rugs – it makes it easy to take down and put back up.
WASH REGULARLY
Rugs under normal to heavy use should be washed annually.
This means sending them out to be washed in a rug cleaning plant, and NOT having them just surface cleaned in your home. (BIG difference, especially if you are trying to avoid bugs.)
If you have moderate traffic on your rugs, and you vacuum at least every other week, that wash time can be extended to every 18-24 months. But longer than 2 years, you are asking for trouble. Not only from the abrasive grit that gets lodged into the base of the rug fibers (which is what causes areas to wear down faster), but also in regards to insect activity.
Washing helps dislodge bug activity and remove it. And for rugs with a big problem you are looking to solve, and you do not want to soak the rug in pesticide poisons, washing and giving the rug a vinegar rinse will help physically remove the bugs and their problem-causing ways.
FOR STORAGE – ALWAYS WASH BEFORE WRAPPING UP
Rug cleaners rarely offer “mothproofing” these days because those solutions are pesticides that kill things, and for something you may have your kids or pets rolling around on, that’s just not safe.
Even the odorless insect repellent solutions that professional cleaners have available and are not poisons still have some irritation risks. (Always read the MSDS to evaluate whether you want to use a particular product that requires leaving residue behind.)
But if a textile is going into storage for years, it is best to make sure you are not going to open up the package and find a rug disaster, so using a repellent is wise unless you are putting the piece in a cedar chest, or using other items that tend to discourage moths.
When I put something into storage, I don’t want to worry about it, so I use a repellent.
The most important step though is the wash and making sure you are not wrapping the rug up with any unwanted pest guests.
If your rug does have a visible insect problem right now, while it is out to be professionally washed you will need to bring in a professional cleaner to tackle your wall-to-wall carpet or your hard floors, wherever the problem rugs were, so that you can remove the rest of the problem.
Hot water extraction (“steam cleaning”) can take care of the problem in your carpeting – something the EPA lays out guidelines on for how often you should have this done as posted on the IICRC website.
To sum up, rug-eating bugs are kind of like unruly teens. They like to go hide in their space, and they don’t want you to bother them.
So you need to pull open the curtains to let fresh air and sunlight in, clean up their surroundings so they escape the fright of it all, and make a routine of that so you don’t end up with bigger problems down the road.
Your teens will come back (hey, they need to eat…), but the bugs will move on to another place with a less attentive rug owner in charge.
Microfibers made from polyester or nylon are vastly superior to nubuck leather, as well as rayon velvets and chenilles, all of which feel soft, but have terrible problems in retaining their soft texture after moderate use and cleaning with any water-based solutions. Nevertheless, microfibers will flatten out and become permanently distorted in heavy usage areas. As with any fine fabrics used in furniture coverings, they need to be maintained by a professional cleaning company that has the solutions, skills and tools to clean and restore those pieces of furniture. Please call Eco Clean @ 865-691-5556 to clean your microfiber furniture and keep it looking fresh and new.
Please visit our website at www.knoxclean.com
How to Prolong the Life of Your Carpet
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Carpet can cost a pretty penny. It is an investment for you home that you don’t want to have to replace until it is absolutely necessary. You spend all that time pooling through selections to choose the right one. You not only pay for the carpet but also for the installation.
You have to wait until the work is done. It’s a time and money consuming process that you probably won’t want to repeat too often. This is why knowing how to properly care for and maintain your carpet can be an invaluable piece of information for you and the life of your carpet.
Here are a few things that you can do to help maximize the life of your carpet:
1. Clean, Clean, Clean. The easiest and most effective way to care for your carpet is to keep it cleaned. Take off your shoes when walking on the carpet. Wearing socks or soft slippers is actually better than going barefoot. When barefoot, oils from your feet can find its way into your carpet and attract more dirt later. Also, vacuum regularly. If you can do it every day or two, fantastic. But realistically if you can vacuum at least once to twice a week you should be good. Remember to keep your vacuum cleaner in tiptop condition also. Empty the bag when it is half full and your canister before each vacuuming. Check the belt for cracks, tears, or worn areas. Make sure the tubes are cleared and that everything else is in working order.
2. Be Prepared. Accidents happen, especially if you have children or pets. Always keep your basic carpet cleaning materials somewhere easily accessible. The key to cleaning up any spill or stain is how quickly you can treat it. If you have an incident you want to first extract as much of the material as possible before treating. Use a shop vac or some clean towels with a weight placed on top and absorb as much of the liquid as you can. Make sure you blot at the area rather than rub at it. Rubbing a stain will only make it worse. Do not use too much cleaning agent at once. Try a little at a time and repeat the process until the spot is gone.
3. Hire a Pro. Carpet experts recommend you hire a professional carpet cleaner at least once to twice a year to clean your carpet. It’s just like going to the dentist. You brush your teeth everyday but once or twice a year you get a good professional cleaning. The same goes for your carpet. Having a professional give your carpet a good once over will give it that deep, thorough clean that will help rejuvenate it. Plus it makes your routine maintenance much easier.
Keeping your carpets looking their best and keeping them healthy are both part of the same process. Follow these simple steps and your carpet should look fantastic and last for a very long time.
*** Winter Cleaning Special: Get FREE Deodorizer With any cleaning…just call by January 31st and ask for the free deodorizer..
Get an estimate now at www.knoxclean.com
or call 865 691-5556
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An experience came my way a few days ago that I thought you might find interesting: A lady called about cleaning the carpeting in a pre-owned home that she had purchased, commenting, “It’s probably a waste of money. The carpeting really isn’t very dirty. If it were my dirt, I wouldn’t worry about it.” The last statement, which jolts the mind, could be translated two ways: 1) “Your dirt is dirtier than my dirt.” 2) “Your dirt is a health threat; mine is sanitary. “
Strange, isn’t it, how dirt ownership somehow sanitizes the filth that accumulates in our carpeting. Yet, when we consider where it comes from-grease, soot (tracked in from parking lots) pesticides, chemical residues from industrial vapors, animal and insect excrement, dust containing dangerous heavy metals, food particles and other natural substances that feed bacteria, pollen and skin cells that feed dust mites-it becomes quickly apparent that “my dirt, ” like anybody’s dirt, constitutes very serious threats to health, to carpet beauty, to carpet life, and to our financial investment. . . which all magnifies another error in our thinking: Our objective should be to keep our carpeting clean, not to clean when we can’t stand to look at the filth any longer.
In concern of my own carpeting, my attitude is a bit different: I don’t see the soil in my carpeting as ‘my dirt’ but as ‘other people’s, which I, unfortunately, tracked into my home. Further, whoever it belongs to is more than welcome to have it back. Considering the threats, I certainly don’t want it.
Thanks,
David Gargan
Eco Clean Carpet Solutions
